Cafe Katja

At Cafe Katja, the arrival of the emmentaler sausage elicits snickers in female diners and fleeting feelings of self-doubt in their male companions. But amusement and anxiety stop once the crisp skin gives way to the gooey cheese inside. Joined by quark dumplings and cabbage, it's a perfect winter dish, hearty and, um, filling. Less erotic, perhaps, but no less good were the pretzel and the cheese spätzle, a seemingly never diminishing plate of firmness and moistness.