Surya

"All you can eat" is perhaps our favorite four-word phrase, particularly when it's followed by "Indian buffet." For many years it seemed every weekend began with a visit to Surya --- we were such regulars, in fact, that a waiter asked us to travel with him to meet his family in Goa.

We had to decline, sadly, and eventually stopped going (two entirely unrelated events). But we went back recently, and realized we'd been foolish to stay away for so long: pappadum as crispy as can be, cauliflower fritters with chick peas, saag paneer, tandoori chicken, daal, chicken tikka masala, spicy green beans, mango chutney. Yum, and yum.

At night, apparently, this West Village restaurant becomes something of a scene. Not so at Saturday lunch, unless you get off on gawking at us while we load our plates again and again.

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