Cookshop

Way back in 2005, Frank Bruni titled his review of Cookshop "Having Your Ethics and Eating Them, Too." As you'd expect from such a headline, everything at this American-with-Mediterranean-influences restaurant in Chelsea is organic and/or locally grown and/or sustainably harvested. And it's all delicious to boot.

We began with fried hominy, like heaven, if heaven tasted slightly of corn nuts, sprinkled with lime, and marinated chickpeas. Then we had the scallops and strip-steak. Would it be too much of a cliche to say that we could taste the sea and the grass in every bite? The steak had a perfect crust, and the scallops came with a pinkish, tangy beet yogurt.

For dessert, we had a milk chocolate bread pudding (good) and chocolate-peanut butter cake (better); for wine, we had Pinot Noir and Torrentes, an Argentinean white. The food and drink and candlelight were perfect, but it was the company that really made the meal.

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