Kefi

Kefi, a Greek restaurant on the Upper West Side, only takes cash, does not accept reservations, serves wines that non-Adriatic folks have never heard of (Agiorghitiko, Malamatina Retsina, etc.), and can seat fewer people than our apartment. So why, when we left there at 7 on a recent Saturday, was there a line at least 20 people long waiting for tables? Well, have a look at the sheep's milk dumplings with pine nuts and lamb sausage, the shrimp with orzo and spinach, and the birino souvlaki. While we're happy to hear of their upcoming move to a larger space--and that they'll be taking credit cards and reservations in their new home--we'll miss the schadenfreude that comes from walking past the waiting crowds enviously eying the flecks of feta on our clothes.