Totale Pizza

In a city where restaurant openings are often preceded by months of feverish speculation, it can almost seem a provocation for a restaurant simply to open. So it has been with Totale Pizza. With an alumnus of Una Pizza Napoletana manning the oven, Totale hews close to the ethos and flavors of that late, lamented spot --- a spare interior, a brief menu, and a purist's margherita pie. But Totale is not a mere replica: witness the eponymous pizza, a white pie topped with pecorino Romano, pine nuts, onions, and rosemary. An unconventional marvel, and at half the price of UPN, an enticing exorcism. Welcome to the dance, Totale.