Prune

Prune, Gabrielle Hamilton's labor of love in the East Village, serves the rustic, gut-pleasing food you can't help but crave throughout the autumn and winter. There on a blustery night not too long ago, half the city seemed to be crowding into the tiny space (and poor Roger Ster--er, John Slattery got turned away), seeking its gustatory comforts. We started with the tangy, gooey, salty parmesan omelette and a plate of grilled lamb sausages, accompanied by pickles, crusty bread, and a delicious mustard. Our mains included braised rabbit legs in vinegar sauce, the meat so tender and delicate you could cut it with a glance, the sauce punchy and perfect, and grilled head-on shrimp in anchovy butter, tailor-made for finger-licking. And a slice of olive oil cake gave us just that little bit of extra fat necessary to step back out into the cold.