Milkflower

What exactly is a milkflower? We don't know, nor did the pizzas we and our good pal Howard ordered at a newly opened pizzeria in Astoria named for one help elucidate the word's meaning. Perhaps Milkflower's spicy soppressata (above) might have come out of the high heat a little sooner, charred as its bits were. Nevertheless, it was admirably spicy and sweet, thanks to chili flakes and honey, respectively. Does it beat the versions on offer at Roberta's or Paulie Gee's? Probably not. But we left not a scrap or bit in the pan. 

The aptly named sausage (below) had hefty chunks of cremini mushrooms interspersed among small chunks of sausage, tomatoes, onions, and mozzarella. Unlike many a Neapolitan pie, these two didn't get soggy in the center, and both boasted a well-salted, nicely crisped crust. Between Tufino and Milkflower, Astoria is trying to give Brooklyn a run for its equally freshly made mozzarella and puffier pies. It still has a ways to go, but it's nice to see it enter the race.