Vatan

An all-you-can-eat vegetarian Gujarati restaurant, Vatan is a little bit of heaven on Third Avenue. The servers wear saris and other traditional garb; the décor attempts to replicate an Indian village, complete with a fake banyan tree. Most tables require you to take off your shoes—and lay back on an assortment of cushions—as the wait staff brings you three courses.

First come the starters, including baby samosas, spicy potato balls, fried jalapeño peppers (which “can be tricky,” as one server says), and wheat cakes. There’s also an assortment of sauces: mint chutney, tamarind, peppers and garlic, carrots and garlic, and mango chutney. Next comes the main course: papadum (thin lentil-based flatbread), two kinds of rice, aloo (cauliflower), spinach and corn, gobi (potatoes), lentil soup, chana masala (chickpeas), chaptai (another bread). And, finally, to seal the meal, a dish of mango ice cream and a cup of chai tea.

There’s no ordering involved, except for drinks, and the servers pace the courses so that you can savor each bit of goodness. Best of all, you can order seconds (and thirds), a privilege we took full advantage of on Friday night.

Adorably, the menu states that you shouldn’t come to Vatan if you’re on a “Diet” (sic). I once ate so much that I literally leaned my way home: the fullness of my stomach caused me to hunch and tip to the right. I’ve since learned moderation, but only just. Now, when I know I’ll be at Vatan later that night, I essentially fast my way through the day, thereby creating the maximum space for its deliciousness.