Fort Defiance

Fort Defiance takes its name from the fort erected (and destroyed) in Red Hook during the Revolutionary War. Despite this eminently Yankee pedigree, the food tilts southern, as in the muffuletta, where the balance of meats, cheese, and tangy olive tapenade on soft bread makes you half-expect to see Lake Pontchartrain out the window. The Dutch apple pancake is adorably homey and sweet without being cloying; toss in a plate of home fries and you'll be talking about the war of northern aggression in no time.

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