Max Soha

New York is an Italiophile's paradise, with restaurants representing all of Italy's major regions, its classic cuisines and its up-to-the-minute avant-garde variants. But sometimes you just want a humble, comfortable neighborhood pasta shop, such as Max Soha in Harlem. Nothing here wows you, but it all satisfies --- grilled peaches with proscuitto, crostini topped with creamy artichokes, pillowy gnocchi swimming in tomato sauce, and a hearty bowl of pappardelle with spicy wild boar.