Tony's Brick Oven Pizza

At Tony's Brick Oven Pizzeria, we tried the caprese, tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella on thick, thick dough, and the garlic knots, tangled twists filled with puffy white. We listened to firefighters talk about weekend plans and twenty-somethings debate tattoos, and we watched much of Staten Island come in for slices and drive along Bay Street, and we felt glad to live in a city that's big enough for all these neighborhoods and conversations and various kinds of pies to co-exist.