Tufino

From an oven hand-crafted in Naples, using volcanic ash from Mt. Vesuvius, come many Neopolitan pies at a newish restaurant in Astoria. Tufinio Pizzeria Napoletana is family-owned, and family-run, the kind of place where the waitress leans over to confess "it's my first day," then knocks over your water glass. So, charming and a bit fumbling. Not so with the pizzas, which were sure-footed and graceful, boasting an extremely light dough.   

The Nonna (bottom) had tomatoes, fior di latte, ricotta, Parmigiano-Reggiano, basil, and handmade meatballs. The Il Greco (top) had Kalamata olives, fior di latte, oregano, and lemon juice, and was as creamy and salty as those ingredients would indicate. Maybe the name is a nod to those who make their home in the neighborhood, or maybe it's just a name. Either way, this place is a nice alternative to the tavernas and fournos that abound.