Zero Otto Nove

A couple years ago, some people claimed the best pizza in New York was being made on Arthur Avenue, the center of The Bronx's Little Italy. This praise caused lots of other people to get on a subway or rent a car to see whether the pies were indeed worth the trip north from Manhattan.


This argument, however intense at the time, has been muted by the arrival of places like Veloce, Keste, Co, and Motorino. (It's also been largely removed from the Internet, to make room, it seems, for more speculation about Tiger Woods and his girlfriends.) Nevertheless, in our quest to, apparently, eat at every Neaapolitan pizza restaurant within the 212 and 718 area codes, we decided to make a trip to Zero Otto Nove ourselves.

The diavola featured very piquant soppressata, mozzarella purchased every day from a cheese store up the street (Casa della Mozzarella), and San Marzano tomatoes.


The patate salsiccia e provola worried us at first. Potatoes on pizza? Isn't that a little like adding sugar to a bowl of Lucky Charms? But the smoked mozzarella spoke to the sausage, and the smoothness of the carby potatoes didn't compete with the chewiness of the carby crust.


In all, these pies were a little too perfect for our taste (we prefer our pizza lumpier and uglier). But we were delighted to discover an inspiring new flavor combination. Pass the sugar bowl.

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