Cabrito

Two years old now, Cabrito was at the leading edge of the bars-with-good-food trend, with its clever cocktails, long tequila list, distracting TVs, loud chatter, and carefully sourced and prepared ingredients on the plate. Age has been kind to Zak Pelaccio's temple to goat in Greenwich Village. Being more eaters than drinkers, we stuck to Jarritos and focused our attention on the Ensenada-style fish tacos, whose beer batter gave them a sweet crunch, as well as on the beef cheek barbacoa, smoked until butter-tender by the the restaurant's partners at Fatty 'Cue and given a cider-chili rub for depth. It's food worth staying sober for.