Annisa

Few dining rooms in town feel so calm, so civilized, so resolutely adult as the one at Annisa, Anita Lo's American-by-way-of-the-world restaurant on Barrow Street in Greenwich Village. The modesty and restraint of the decor and service belie what happens on the plate: bold, adventurous cooking that showcases sharp technique and unexpected flavors.

Lo's global influences become apparent the minute you open the menu --- foie gras soup dumplings, kabocha and maitake, eggplant with Turkish chilis all make an appearance. From these multitudes, we decided on one Asian dish, barbecued squid with Thai basil, edamame, and peanuts, and one updated American classic, pork belly so skillfully cooked you could see and taste each layer, served with cracklings and a deconstructed broth ball.

Entrees were just as far-flung: sea urchin and loofah gave the scallops a Caribbean feel, while the bobotie (ground meat topped with custard) side echoed the South African spices used to cook the lamb. Here's a chef fully confident in her abilities, justifiably arrogant in her choices: why not serve a side of meat with meat? How about augmenting the chewiness of squid with the tenderness of boiled peanuts, then serve the dish such that the tentacles reach out plaintively toward the eater?  

Dessert found us in the South, sucking walnut butterscotch out of beignets dipped in bourbon ice milk (no need for an after dinner drink with this) and devouring a peanut butter-and-banana tower surrounded by a moat of coconut sauce. Purists might scoff at the various places Lo took our palate; for us, we'll go with a risk-taker every time.