Jeffrey's Grocery

Gabe Stulman is rapidly becoming the emperor of the West Village --- and rightfully so. The Little Owl, his first restaurant, has become an institution; Joseph Leonard, his second, is well on its way. Now comes Jeffrey's Grocery, an oyster bar and restaurant that also stocks supplies like marmalade from Anarchy in a Jar, veggies, coffee, cheese, and toilet paper. The lovely space has been restored to what it looked like in the late 1800s: thick glass in the windows, exposed brick, a catty-corner entrance, broad-beamed floor.

With hype comes crowds. Sitting elbow to knee with strangers (there are 12 seats at the bar and another 12 at the high communal table) while paying $20-something for entrees and perching on backless stools holds little appeal for us, alas. So we dashed in for breakfast --- an adorable pretzel roll stuffed with brie and tomato jam, four wonderful bites of a smoked salmon, caper, and cream cheese–concoction on a mini multigrain bun, a chocolate coffee cake, and an excellent raspberry loaf. Outside dogs cavorted in snow banks, while owners popped in for a tea, a bagel, and a quick chat with the counterperson --- a perfect New York morning, in any century.