Brats

Poor Daniel Angerer. Thanks to a stroke of culinary innovation he had last year, no one can write or talk about him without saying, "The breast milk cheese guy." So there, we said it. In the sort of development that jokes are made of, he's shifted his focus from breasts to wieners with his new Chelsea hot dog shop, Brats. On a drizzly Saturday, we pulled up stools and enjoyed the lively country chicken sausage, which has paprika and coriander mixed in and an intriguing blueberry mustard on the side, as well as the French duck sausage, a snappy Muscovy link atop a country pate.

And then there was the giant pretzel. You might balk at ordering a $9 pretzel, but we've had $30 main courses smaller and less satisfying than this Bavarian beast.