Thelewala

Thelewala, a kitchen-sized new spot in Greenwich Village, specializes in the nizami rolls popular in Calcutta. While we enjoyed our achari aloo tikka roll, we preferred the tawa chicken fry, with a blast of coriander and a house masala, and the two chaats we tried. Bel poori combines puffed rice, red onions, chickpeas, and potatoes with two chutneys, while jaal moori tosses peanuts, olive oil, and lime into the mix. Both jump with flavor and come street-ready in small plastic tubs. Shagotom, Thelewala.