Guelaguetza

To get a seat at Guelaguetza, a bodega in Hell's Kitchen, we had to move a flat of Jarritos off one of the three tables, as the other two were taken up by coloring books belonging to the daughter of the delivery man and waitress/cook. No matter: you don't come here for comfortable surroundings or the atmosphere, even if that does include said daughter dancing to Sesame Street; you come for cheap and tasty tacos. We went with chicken, chorizo, lamb, and pork skin, each under $3, all fresh and satisfying.

space