Convivio
We continued our Restaurant Week adventures at Convivio, Michael White's much-lauded southern Italian restaurant in the appealing somnolence of Tudor City. Our waiter lived up to the restaurant's name by confessing himself to be a "major wine geek" as he gave us loving descriptions of the bubble-free prosecco and Balbium magliocco we ordered, which he swore were the most interesting options on the menu.
Both wines were terrific, so we were in a receptive state for our first courses, an heirloom tomato soup with seafood salad and fried pancetta, figs, and pecorino over greens. Figs and pancetta is a tough combination to argue with, but we were most impressed with the soup, which had a cool intensity that captured the very essence of the tomatoes.
We followed with grouper over a corn caponata and roasted pepper cream, and a bowl of orechiette with ricotta and crushed tomatoes. The grouper tasted fine, but it looked like a spill at the DayGlo factory. The orechiette, however, was yummy on all counts, the pasta cooked to just the right toothiness and the tomatoes, cheese, and fresh basil combining to show how satisfying a simple dish can be.
Our desserts were an affogato with espresso and a chocolate ganache with salted caramel. The espresso in the affogato was sufficiently strong that we didn't need to order dessert coffees, but it was nicely cut by the gelato. We couldn't figure out where the salted caramel went in the ganache until we discovered that it was a layered ring within the chocolate, an unexpected reward for eager digging.
Both wines were terrific, so we were in a receptive state for our first courses, an heirloom tomato soup with seafood salad and fried pancetta, figs, and pecorino over greens. Figs and pancetta is a tough combination to argue with, but we were most impressed with the soup, which had a cool intensity that captured the very essence of the tomatoes.
We followed with grouper over a corn caponata and roasted pepper cream, and a bowl of orechiette with ricotta and crushed tomatoes. The grouper tasted fine, but it looked like a spill at the DayGlo factory. The orechiette, however, was yummy on all counts, the pasta cooked to just the right toothiness and the tomatoes, cheese, and fresh basil combining to show how satisfying a simple dish can be.
Our desserts were an affogato with espresso and a chocolate ganache with salted caramel. The espresso in the affogato was sufficiently strong that we didn't need to order dessert coffees, but it was nicely cut by the gelato. We couldn't figure out where the salted caramel went in the ganache until we discovered that it was a layered ring within the chocolate, an unexpected reward for eager digging.
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