Salumeria Biellese

Capicola sandwich, Salumeria Biellese

Obviously the only thing to order at Salumeria Biellese --- whose owners have been curing meats in the same Midtown South location since 1925, using a recipe that predates refrigeration, to the occasional displeasure of the Department of Health --- is pork.

So that's what we did, in the form of a capicola with provolone and prosciutto with mozzarella. The storefront is a bit sad, with grubby plastic tables and napkin dispensers, but the meat tasted of joy, history, Platonic ideals of pigs raised to be humanely slaughtered and turned into sandwich stuffs, of saltiness and chewy meatiness. We advise getting a few to go, then crossing the avenues to Hudson River Park. Eat each one slowly, thinking of how food with a past both roots us and prepares us for the future.

Prosciutto and mozzarella sandwich, Salumeria Biellese
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