Denino's

We're slowly making our way through the Staten Island paragons of pizza, those destinations for lovers of thin pie smothered with sweet tomato sauce, of crust so crisp you can hear it when you take a bite. At Denino's, in Port Richmond, we got garlic, onions, and sausage, a stinky, pungent, just-right-for-us combo, eight great slices that seemed to get better as they cooled, the slightly charred ends maintaining their sonorousness until the end. ("In crust we trust," reads the takeout box.) Coupled with two "super sodas" in extra big plastic glasses, the pizza made for a fine way to spend a Saturday.