Allswell

At Allswell a few nights ago, all really was well, and not just because we were eating with two friends, Donny and Howard of Eat to Blog, and not because those two know the chef, and not just because Nate Smith immediately jumped to the top of our list of nicest chefs in New York, and not just because he sent out a bunch of stuff for us to try. Nope, all was well because the food was, well, really good. 

Curious, we started with the so-called gentleman's relish, two halves of toast spread with garlic so roasted it transforms into butter, anchovies, and an ideally cooked seven-minute egg, crunchy thanks to some cracked pepper and coarse salt. We also had the chorizo pot pie, tiny but bursting with sausage. Chef Smith sent out more toast, this time earthy wild mushrooms topped with a soft egg, and a bright smoked trout-potato-and-ricotta salad. As mains, salty, lip-smacking guinea fowl and a  pineapple, smoked date, blood orange, and pickled onion salad, surprising and fresh. Stuffed, we all leaned back and called a time out, only to be given more gifts: a yogurt tart drizzled with honey and a winter-perfect toffee pudding heightened by a dollop of creme fraiche and caramel. Thanks, Donny, Howard, and, above all, Nate.